San Sebastián

For our first thrifty guide, it made sense to write about a foodie destination, and over the past century the coastal city of San Sebastián has cemented itself as a destination for the tasteful glutton.

Just to the east of Bilbao, the de-facto capital of Spain’s Basque country, on the Bay of Biscay sits the beautiful and delicious Donostia-San Sebastián. Surf-packed beaches and a rocky coastline border the city's northern edge, sitting above a charming old town, a dense cluster of art-nouveau buildings, perfectly preened green spaces, and some of the best restaurants and bars in the country.

As a culinary destination San Seb is home to some of the priciest restaurants around. Arzak – one of San Seb’s most iconic Basque restaurants – demands a spicy $269 for food, before any drinks. Tap water for me please.

But don’t fret, in our opinion, the best food is found in San Seb’s Parte Vieja (Old Town). It may appear sleepy by day but, after hours, this neighbourhood springs to life. The cobblestone streets are littered with wide-eyed, hungry folk, all of them embarking on a pintxos pilgrimage, seeking out promises of briny anchovies, blistered green peppers showered with crunchy salt, sliced T-bone steaks draped over a crusty baguette and fried squid sandwiches with lashings of spicy aioli. All this washed down with a cold caña (a small beer, served in a big glass, enough to make any quizzical Brit ask why the rest of the pint is still in the tap), a glass of Cidre poured from an astonishing height, or a serve of the local sparkling tipple, Txakoli (pronounced sha-ko-lee).

Sounds good, right?

Ok, let’s start with the boring stuff. You’re going to need euros, obviously. The timezone is GMT+1, you can drink the tap water, and nearly everywhere will accept your Monzo.

The climate in northern Spain is largely mild, giving it perfect city break vibes. Think of it as the UK with the thermostat cranked up a few degrees. Sunny in summer and chilly in winter, pack a raincoat and you’ll be grand.

Catch an early evening flight to Bilbao on Friday (starting at just £28-30 return) and then hop on the public shuttle bus to San Seb, it takes just over 90 mins and will set you back €16. Once you’re in the city itself, you’ll find almost everything is within walking distance so don’t sweat about racking up a big metro, bus or Uber bill. Let your legs do the work.

Surf Hostels – by far the cheapest place to stay, with prices starting at just €15-18 a night, you can find these hostels littered along the edge of the two beaches. AirBnb has some great options but only if you’re going with a good crew (3-6 people).

Kick the day off with a slice of Patxineta (pronounced Pan-Chee-Netta). A pretty perfect patisserie, the Pantxineta is a classic Basque pastry, not ordinarily consumed for breakfast, but we’ve only got 48 hours, so we’ve got to bend a few rules. Served as miniatures or by the slice, expect two flaky sheets of puff housing a heaving layer of cinnamon-infused custard cream. Perfect with a strong black coffee. You’ll likely be back for brekkie tomorrow.

After eating your little slice of heaven, wander across the historic Maria Cristina Bridge, skipping over the Urumea river to the Tabakalera. An ex-tobacco factory, now converted into a community space hosting a delightful blend of contemporary cultural exhibits. Home to the Basque Film Archive, screenings occupy plenty of the calendar alongside a spate of creative-led events and exhibits throughout the year. Dip in and get lost for a few hours, completely free of charge.

Hungry again already? Scoot out of the Tabakalera and down to the new town. Grab a pack of jamón, a bottle of cider, and hit the beach for a picnic. To the west is Kontxa hondartza – the more sheltered of the two beaches, and a spot that’s perfect for a wave-free, casual dip. If you’re more extreme you may want to check out Zurriolako Hondartza and try your hand at surfing or bodyboarding. You can rent gear from a handful of spots along the beach, and if you’re staying in a surf hostel, they might even do you a discount.

Ok, the sun is setting, it’s time to get back, take a shower and head out for the evening. The moment everyone’s been waiting for. It’s time for the infamous Pintxos Crawl. All of these small, baguette-based snacks will cost between €1-4, with most sitting on the cheaper end. You want to dip into as many spots as you can. Don't stay anywhere too long, don’t be shy, chat to bartenders, they’re there to – and, more importantly, want to – show you a good time. Lean in. Start with a few Gildas, a saline skewer of olive, anchovy, guindilla (pickled green chilli) and then move through to glistening slivers of jamón, rich Morcilla sausage and crispy fried gambas (prawns). Stay well lubricated with whatever drinks the house specialises in.

There are literally hundreds of pintxo bars in Donostia, and here are my honourable mentions. Paco Bueno is a real “spit and sawdust” spot, super old school, go for the tempura prawns and tortilla sandwich. Txepetxa is an anchovy lover's heaven. These little fish dominate the menu and come out punching. The blueberry jam and pickled anchovy might sound odd but it’s remarkably good. Finally, head to Bar Sport for impeccable calamari and a buzzy vibe.

Stagger home fat and happy.

Rise and shine. Grab a coffee to go, it’s time to walk off last night.

Head just north of the Old Town and ascend the steps to Motako Gaztelua, a 12th Century walled keep-cum-castle with ramparts, statues, old cannons and a small but generous museum. Stop to catch your breath and admire the view of Donostia and its dramatic mountainous backdrop. Once you reach the summit you’ll enjoy stunning views of the beach and San Seb in its entirety. Wander down and loop around the coastal path onto Vista Monte Urgull another insta worthy photo op. Snake past the Aquarium and the harbour and back into town. Time for a bite to eat.

Sunday lunch is the best meal of the week, and this is going to be a belter. Head down to Bar Nestor, only open for lunch on Sundays (1-3.30pm). Our advice is to get there early, and get your name down on the list. There are no reservations at Nestor (bar one table that is booked up for the next 4 years). Hover outside with drink in hand, chatting to the throng of eager diners waiting to get inside, until your name is called, and the gates to nirvana swing open.

At Nestor they serve three things; 1. Tomato Salad 2. Padron Peppers 3. Big Fat Steaks. They do serve bocadillos (sandwiches) if you’re not super hungry, but go hungry and really dig in. You’re presented with a choice of steak at the top of your meal: big or bigger. The staff parade out of the kitchen with trays laden with bovine bricks for you to select. Once the choosing is done, sit back and drink in the atmosphere. Everything is served with chunks of baguette for scarping up olive oil and resting juices. It’s an unforgettable eating experience and likely one of the best meals you’ll have.

Almost time to head home, but enough time for a quick tour around the Museo San Telmo, free for under 25s, €3 for students, €6 for normals. Meander down the corridors taking in Basque art and culture from the old to the contemporary. It’s a real treat.

Grab a seriously tasty Calamari Bocadillo to go from Juantxo Taberna, the tortilla sarnie is excellent, too, and head for the subterranean bus station by Tabakalera. Hop back on the shuttle, catch a late flight home and start planning your next trip to the Basque country. Trust me, you’ll be back.