We catch up with the head chef of The Palmerston in Edinburgh about his favourite pick-me-up meals and what most excites him about the Scottish dining scene.
Lloyd Morse is a man of many talents. As the head chef of The Palmerston in Edinburgh’s West End, Lloyd has helped to make that restaurant a hit with locals as well as a magnet for people visiting the city for a stint of good eating. Positioned as both a neighbourhood joint and a destination for serious eaters, The Palmerston sums up Lloyd’s approach to cooking. The food is simple, seasonal, and takes its approach to whole-animal cooking seriously.
Having worked the stove at Skye Gyngell’s Spring as well as other big dogs of the London scene like The River Cafe and Primeur, Lloyd is an Australian native who’s really found his feet in the UK. His style, which bears many of the hallmarks of classical European cooking, is timeless. His taste? Impeccable. Lloyd Morse is one of the most exciting talents working out of a kitchen right now and we were lucky enough to ask him a few questions about what makes him tick.
What’s the first meal you ever learned how to cook?
I can remember my dad teaching me to cook bacon and eggs. And to fry the eggs in the bacon fat. I’ll never forget the day that my stepmother poured out the bacon fat before we fried the eggs.
What’s the last meal you cooked?
A couple of pork chops and courgettes for my wife and I.
Have you got a favourite pick-me-up meal?
Spaghetti with a very oily, garlicky and spicy tomato sauce
What knife do you use?
I have two chef’s knives that I use the most: a Victorinox and a Sabatier. Anything that can have the shit kicked out of it works for me.
Where's your favourite place (that's not The Palmerston) to eat in Edinburgh?
Spitaki. It’s a Greek restaurant within walking distance of our flat.
What’s the most underrated ingredient of all time?
Loads of fresh herbs.
What’s the most overrated ingredient of all time?
Anything puréed.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?
A butcher.
What excites you the most about the Scottish food scene?
The constant search to find new producers. Sheep are a really good example of this. There are hundreds of farms raising sheep. But each flock will have its own flavour. A fat Texel sheep from Fife is going to taste completely different from a skinny Shetland hogget from the outer isles.
What cookbook are you always reaching for?
Five Quarters by Rachel Roddy and anything by Jane Grigson
The best season is…?
Early autumn. End of summer and the beginning of the colder months. Game, fruit and the last of the summer veg. Can’t beat it.
Where are you going for dinner tonight?
I start my shift at 3pm. Staff food is normally up at 4pm.
Quickfire Questions
Olive oil or butter?
Depends on the dish. Oil probably.
Starter or dessert?
Starter.
Ketchup or HP?
Ketchup. HP belongs in the bin.
How do you like your eggs?
Fried on toast. My death row meal.